Audi EPC catalog prices : Motor 24000 EUR – Transmission 13000 – Camshaft 3600 – NOx 1200 – DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) 5000 – Turbine 4000 – EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) 1500 – CR Pump (Common Rail Pump) 2800 – Injectors 7200 – Crankshaft 4000 – Mildhybrid 48V Battery 2800 – Alternator 2200 = Consumable parts over 100,000 km amount to 71300 EUR.
What we have been warning about for years, with 14 years of experience, is that “cheaper” fossil fuel vehicles are generally more expensive than electric vehicles (EVs), at least twice as expensive. This is a topic that we knew about and warned about from various sources (not just our work) including tuners and technicians from authorized Porsche Interauto service centers, that new fossil fuel vehicles are garbage. They are made of low-quality materials, weakened materials, overly complicated solutions, programmed failures, and excessively expensive parts. The 3.0 TDI engines that have been installed, if I’m not mistaken, since 2014, meaning 10 years ago, how is it possible that this same garbage has never been called out, questioned, or reported on? How is it possible that this semi-finished product garbage was sold for almost 10 years, and the general public only found out about the problem when it affected them personally? The answer lies literally in every possible article from Revijahak, Autoportal, Jutarnji, Auto Klub, Start Shitnews, Index Auto, and other portals whose opinions are smeared to be superficial. Only electric vehicles (EVs) are criticized for every detail, while garbage from fossil fuel vehicles doesn’t even get a recall, let alone a part revision, for the most serious mistakes. The cost of each part in a new car is only questioned when it comes to what they hate and want to subjectively misinform the public about – the cost of EV batteries. They don’t know the cost of any individual gasoline or diesel engine part in those vehicles they praise, which is basically more expensive than the ENTIRE EV (exactly what they claim about EVs). They praise them because they are paid, and if they criticize, they don’t get “exclusive” access to new models for test drives. So, if you wonder why fossil fuel vehicles are becoming more and more garbage, the main culprits are automotive destroyers – journalists who sell propaganda for sales by praising something they have no idea about how it works. “Šebalji,” Ilko the auto-fascist from automobili.hr, Index journalists, Jutarnji, and other propagandistically destructive cartels are responsible for the state of terrible quality in the automotive sector. An ordinary faithful lover of metal toys has nowhere to get information about EVs or fossil fuel vehicles.
So after all these years of listening to journalistic automotive fascism and discrimination against topics that are not lubricated for them, we can conclude that there is a significant lack of an independent and unbiased audience directed by ordinary users and very crucial mechanics who are a neglected link and voice in informing owners. Mechanics with experience have been deprived of the right to speak; journalists and self-proclaimed “car enthusiasts” have taken that away and are in the process of demonizing mechanics as “scammers.” We almost don’t have a media platform with real criticism of garbage, low-quality, and expensive engines, programmed failures. Only colleague Bagrameli expresses these issues with years of experience faithfully conveying topics from the fossil fuel perspective. Mechanics with their experience should be proud of that part of the automotive industry.
Audi missed the mark with their new diesel models since 2012, from the high-pressure pump that starts to flake off, and the repair costs 10,000 euros on the 2.0 TDI, to the complete 3.0 TDI engine where they placed a spring in the camshaft to tension the gear that disintegrates as early as 50,000 km. Reported semi-finished product engine codes are CRT CUA CZV DEWA. In addition, the engine is so poorly constructed that after an oil change, an air pocket remains on the pressure valve or oil pressure regulation sensor that can break the entire engine block. The crankshaft, camshaft, oil system, 48V generator, 48V Li-Ion battery… every component is like gold dust on this engine. The majority of these vehicles face very expensive problems already at 50,000 km, where a vehicle with 200 kW should only drive at 50 km/h and with ballet slippers on the feet to penetrate only 5% of the gas pedal to preserve the engine to last 100,000 km. It’s sad that one wonders what’s wrong with the German auto industry and where is the critical voice to stop this. Realistically, people will switch to EVs simply because they have no alternative, even without any (as flat earthers would say) coercion. Those powertrains have have early issue with complete engine before 100k km and costs which owners pay are around 28000€.
These vehicles are so risky that even simple oil change services, where the poorly designed engine can blow out the engine block, will result in blaming the mechanic, as it usually happens. Owners have started to harass mechanics with invented expensive problems, “it wasn’t like this when I came,” so there are fewer and fewer mechanics and services willing to work on these vehicles. It’s less of a hassle to replace the battery on an EV than to do a small service on an Audi diesel CRT engine.
Therefore, it is certain that fossil fuel vehicles have dug their own grave with poor quality. Those who drive them and charge once for subpar parts will realize that even the battery on a Tesla, costing 20,000 euros, is cheaper than diesel trash. We have been working on and servicing them for years, and we switched to EV primarily because of wasting money on oil, and the last straw was the poor quality of the engine and increasingly expensive maintenance parts. So, dear audience, the EV battery is 4 times cheaper than a fossil fuel engine.
Motor 24000eur – Mjenjač 13000 – Bregaste 3600 – NOx 1200 – DPF 5000 – Turbina 4000 – EGR 1500 – CR Pumpa 2800 – Dizne 7200 – Radilica 4000 – Mildhybrid 48V Aku 2800 – Alternator 2200 = Potrošnih dijelova na 100000km je 71300 EURA Ono sto već godinama upozoravamo nakon 14 godina iskustva, da su “jeftiniji” fosilci od EV u principu skuplji od EV, u najmanju ruku duplo skuplji. Tema za koju smo mi znali, iz više razlicitih izvora upozoravali (ne samo što ih mi radimo već) od Tjunera pa do tehničara ovlaštenih servisa Porsche Interauto, da su novi fosilci smeće. Smeće od nekvalitetnih materijala, oslabljenih materijala, prekompliciranih riješenja, programiranih kvarova pa do abnormalno skupih dijelova. Motori 3.0tdi koji su se počeli ugradjivati ako se ne varam jos od 2014, znači prije 10 godina, kako je moguće da to isto smeće niko nikad nije prozvao, propitkivao ili izvještavao. Kako je moguće da se to poluproizvod smeće prodavalo skoro 10 godina i da šira publik sazna o problemu tek na vlastitoj kože, a odgovor leži doslovno u svakom mogućem članku Revijahak, Autoportal, Jutarnji, Auto Klub, Start Shitnews, Index Auto i ostalim portalima kojima je mišljenje podmazano da bude površno. Kritikuje se samo EV za svaku sitnicu, a smeće od fosilaca i za najopasnije greške ne dobije ni opoziv, a kamo li reviziju dijela. Temama koliko koji dio košta na novom autu je samo propitkivan kad je u pitanju ono sto oni mrze i sto neobjektivno žele dezinformirti publiku, a to je koliko košta EV baterija ali ne znaju koliko košta ijedan pogonski dizel benzin motora tih vozila koja oni hvale a koji je u principu skoplji od CIJELOG FOSILCA (upravo ono sto tvrde za EV), a hvale jer im je plaćeno a ako kritikuju onda nemaj “eksluziv” pristup novim modelima na test voznju. Zato ako se pitate zašto su fosilci sve veće i veće smeće, glavni krivci su automotive destruktori – novinari koji prodaju propagandu za prodaju hvaleći nešto o čemu nemaju pojma ni kako radi. Šebalji, Ilko autofašista sa automobili.hr , novinari indexa , jutarnjeg i ostalog propagandno desktruktivnog kartela su zaslužni za stanje užasne kvalitete u automotive sektoru. Običan vjerni ljubitelj limenih igrački se nema gdje informirati niti o EV niti o Fosilcima.
Screenshot Primjer jednog fakenews portala koji agendom ne kritizirajuci fosilce, neobjektivno bombardira dezinformacijama. Novinari koji poprilično nesposobnim vještinama poznavanja ijedne automotive materije kopiraju clanak dodaju narativ da dobiju par klikova i izmjišljaju nepostojeći debilizam o automobilima, dok istovremeno ne prenosi recimo temu o dizelskim pogonima koji su smeće u cilju da zaštiti kupca ili budućeg vlasnika i da prizvođač ponudi trajno riješenje. Ne prenosi kvarove i cijene dijelova istih.
COPY PASTE FAKE NEWS PORTAL
Tako da nakon svih ovih godina slušanja novinarskog automobilskog fašizma i diskriminacije onih tema kojima se njima ne podmazuju možemo doći do zaključka da jako nedostaje neovisnog i neucjenjenog auditorijuma u režiji običnih korisnika i vrlo ključnih mehaničara koji su zanemarena karika i glas u informiranju vlasnika. Mehaničarima sa iskustvom oduzeto je pravo na glas, oduzeli su novinari i samoprozvani “automobilisti” i još su u tom procesu mehaničare demonizirali u “prevarante”. Skoro da uopće nemamo takav medijski podij sa realnom “pljuvačinom” na smeće, nekvalitetne i skupe pogone, programirane kvarove. Iskazuje se jedino kolega Bagrameli sa tim temama i dugogodišnjim iskostvom koji vjerno prenosi teme i iz fosilnog kutka. Mehaničari sa svojim iskustvom bi trebali biti ponos tog dijela automobilizma.
Audi je sa novim dizel modelima od 2012 fulao sve od visokotlačne pumpe koja se počne perutati i sanacija košta 10000eura na 2.0 tdi, pa do kompletnog 3.0 tdi motora gdje su u bregastu smjestili oprugu da napinje zupčanik koji se raspane već na 50k km. Prijavljeni poluproizvod kodovi motora su CRT CUA CZV DEWA. Osim toga, motor je toliko loše konstruiran da nakon izmjene ulje ostane airpocket na ventilu tlaka ili senzoru regulacije tlaka ulja da razbije kompletan blok motora. Na motoru se raspada radilica, bregasta, uljni sistem, 48v generator, 48v Li-Ion akumulator… i svaka kompnenta je kao suho zlato. Velika većina tih vozila jako skupe probleme ima već na 50000km, gdje vozilo od 200kw bi morali voziti do 50kmh i sa balerinkama na nozi da penetrirate samo 5% pedale gasa i da bi ste sačuvali motor da izdrži 100k km. Žalosno da se čovjek zapita koji je klinac sa tom Njemačkom autoindustrijom i gdje je taj glas kritike da se to zaustavi. Realno ekipa će prelaziti na EV samo zato što nemaju alternativu, čak i bez (kako bi rekli ravnozemljaši) prisile. Ta vozila su toliko rizična i najjednostavnije male servise izmjene ulja, gdje ce loš dizajna motora izbiti blok motora pa će biti “majstor kriv” kako to inače bude. Mehaničare su vlasnici počeli silovati izmišljenim skupim problemima “nije to tako bile kad sam dosao” da sve manje mehanicara i servisa ima koji uopce žele raditi na tim vozilima. Manja je šteta da na EV probijete bateriju nego da radite mali servis na Audi dizel CRT motoru.
Zato je sigurno da su totalno nepouzdani fosilci sami sebi iskopali grob nekvalitetom, tko ih vozi i naplaća se jednom škart dijelova shvatit će da i sama baterija na Tesli od 20000eura je jeftinija od dizel smeća. Mi ih godinama radimo i servisiramo, a na EV smo prešli primarno zbog bacanja love na naftu a zadnja kap je bila nekvaliteta pogona i sve skuplji dijelovi za održavanje.
Tako da draga publiko, baterija na EV je 4x jeftinija od pogona fosilca.
The repair, costing €32,000, was resolved for €500 on a 2015 VW eUp. It generally doesn’t require major interventions and has proven extremely reliable with very few issues. The owner reported the vehicle being immobilized for a couple of months. An authorized service performed a diagnosis and determined a new battery was needed.
Due to a backlog of diesel Mercedes Bravas, DSG transmissions, and other activities, there was barely any time to inspect the eUp that arrived over two weeks ago. However, a detailed OBD analysis was done before removing or opening the battery.
Interestingly, the battery error was an interlock issue. Interlock is a safety mechanism that creates a short circuit in all high-voltage components and cables (orange-colored) to disconnect the battery in case someone tries to manipulate or open a module that’s under voltage. This prevents accidents. Initially suspected to be the BMS (Battery Management System), it was confirmed not to be the battery after testing the interlock lines.
Further examination revealed irregular values on the interlock lines towards the vehicle on the BMS connector pins 4 and 11. It was then discovered that the issue was not with the battery but with the “service” interlock switch used to safely disconnect the vehicle for maintenance. A pin had broken within the connector. Replacing this switch allowed the eUp to indicate readiness and operate again.
While the cause of the problem wasn’t crucial, this specific switch, designed by the Germans for EVs, proved intricate to handle. It required a high level of expertise to manipulate safely, taking two hours of work. The needle broke while attempting to disconnect the switch for maintenance or by someone not equipped to handle EVs.
After replacing a second small battery and the interlock switch, totaling about 10 working hours, €31,000 was saved. The notion that battery repairs are always costly becomes even more dubious. The VW eUp, one of the most sought-after small urban cars, has had no major issues with its batteries or engines. Only three vehicles were serviced in total. Known issues include the Charging Module (BD), gear lever not detecting the parking position for charging, and faults in the OBC (On-Board Charger). OBC issues are mostly caused by external network influences like short circuits or lightning strikes.
The new OBC costs around €4000, used ones around €800, and repairs around €600. The earliest 2015 models had only AC charging and lacked CCS DC. The small 18kWh battery is sensitive in winter, reducing the range to 60-70km. Among all small vehicles on the market, the eUp stands out as a top choice alongside others like C0, Smart, Ami, Twingo, etc.
HRVATSKI
Kvar od 32,000€ riješen za 500€ na VW eUp 2015, koji generalno uopće ne dolazi na lobotomiju i koji je se pokazao izuzetno pouzdanim, sa vrlo malim brojem kvarova. Vlasnik javlja da je vozilo nepokretno već par mjeseci, da je ovlasteni servis napravio dijagnostiku i da je procjena nova baterija. Kako smo pretrpani dizel mercedes bravama, DSG mjenjačima i ostalim sponzorskim dinosaur aktivnostima jedva nadjemo koji dan da pregledamo eUp koji je stigao orije 2 tjedna, da napravimo OBD detaljnu analizu prije skidanja i otvaranja baterije. Gle vraga, greška u bateriji je interlock. Interlock je “safety loop” mehanizam koji ima kratkospojku u svim visokonaponskim komponentama i kablovima (narandzaste boje) da ako mehaničar ili neko treći proba čačkati po istim, odpajati ili otvarati modul koji je pod naponom , da baterija izvrši odpajanje kontaktora u bateriji, tj interlock zaštitu. S obzirom da je taj mehanizam zaštite u bateriji, postoji sumnja da je baterija tj BMS. Ali prvo treba potvrditi da je BMS ili ostatak vozila. Nakon ispitivanja interlock linije na prema vozilu na žicama od BMS konektora, na pinu 4 i 11 , vrijednosti nisu pravilne. Ohoooo momenat, 100% nije baterija. Sad ispitati SVE HV kablove i komponente. Sve u redu. Na kraju dodjemo do “servisnog” interlock prekidača koji služi sa odpajanje vozila za rad na siguran način, i gle vraga opet, pukla igla u konektoru. Stavimo odmah drugi servisni prekidač i eUp pokaza Ready i vozi. Kako je došlo do ovog, nije ni bitno, tko radi taj i griješi, medjutim ovo je jedan od prekidača koji su Njemci izmislili za EV i treba vam doktorat da ga otvorite. Ponovno ogledalo nesposobnosti dizajnirati “fail proof” prekidač da mehaničar u servisu može početi sa radom tj da može odpojiti visoki napon za siguran rad bez trošenja 2 radna sata. Igla je pukla nekom dok je pokusavao odpojiti prekidač i raditi na vozilu. Ili neko tko uopce nije spreman da radi na EV. Nakon drugog malog akumulatora, drugog interlock prekidača i 10ak radnih sati spašeno je 31000€, a priča da su kvarovi na bateriji uvjek skupi postaju samo još bljeđi mainstreem stereotip. VW eUp je jedan od najpoželjnijih malih gradskih vozila, do sada pravih kvarova na baterijema ili motorima je bilo ukupno 0. Ukupno vozila na servisu je bilo 3. Poznati kvarovi su Modul punjenja (BD) , ručica mjenjača koja ne vidi parking poziciju da bi se punio, kvar OBC. Kvar na OBC najčešće je uzrokovan vanjskim utjecajem na mreži, kratak spoj, grom ili slično. Nov je oko 4000€, rabljen oko 800€ a reparacija oko 600€. Postoje prvi 2015 modeli koji imaju samo AC punjenje, nemaju CCS DC. Mala baterija od 18kWh je osjetljiva zimi i domet pada na 60-70km. Od svih malih vozila koja postoje na tržištu, mali eUp je definitvno najbolji izbor pored ostalih C0, Smart, Ami, Twingo itd.
We received one new battery from DS9 to recycle it into usable second life. The first thing we noticed is that the battery is excellent in terms of its size for some kind of quad swap or mini Morris swap, as it integrates everything from water cooling to all necessary components for safe usage, including contactors, pre-charge circuits, etc. The battery pack’s manufacturer is the defunct A123 company, known for creating robust systems, even for the military and automotive industries. The battery cover isn’t glued but secured with screws and a rubber seal. Its total weight is around 96 kilograms. The system consists of 8 blocks in a 12S configuration, likely composed of LFP prismatic cells, probably from A123’s production line, judging by the block’s length matching those of VW, Ford, Mazda prismatic 12S blocks, but with cell width in the block housing at 13.8 cm, about 1.5 cm less wider than other manufacturers in similar configurations. One block has a capacity of 1.485 kWh and weighs 9.6 kg. Total capacity of the battery pack is 11.9kWh, but usable probably below 10kWh. The coolant plates are affixed using thermally conductive silicone on the underside of the cells, or blocks. The BMS system comprises 2 slave controllers and one master. Commendably, they designed the battery with active cooling and heating, ensuring a longer battery life, although the cell power of 35Ah might not survive charges up to 200k km. The processor is Tricore SAK-TC234LP, commonly found in Stellantis battery systems, even among different suppliers, (among Renesas, Texas Instruments, etc.)
Price OEM: Unknown
Part numbers: A123 PHEV.EMC00, 9832854680, 9835365680, WXAA-BI03V1100, A123
Peugeot Ion, Citroën C-Zero, and Mitsubishi i-MiEV – one and the same vehicle, one of the unbreakable pioneers and one of the few that outlasted most of the competition in that segment. Back in 2012, at the age of 24, while I was dreaming of buying a Tesla that was just being promoted, I didn’t even have enough money for this Ion, but it would have been sufficient for most needs if my diesel didn’t swallow up everything I earned. With the Ion, we do absolutely nothing except for the OBC module, which is an integrated ‘rectifier’ module in the vehicle, converting 220 AC to DC 400. Many mainstream disinformants would be surprised if they managed to ‘digest’ the fact that in almost all EVs (except the Nissan Leaf), the biggest problem isn’t the battery but rather the electric motors or OBC, depending on the model. OBC usually fails due to overheating, unstable power grid interruptions, lightning strikes, or simply material fatigue in the chips, causing one component to burn half of the controller. The OBC for this vehicle, at an authorized service center, costs an incredible €8000 new, which makes it no longer profitable for many to even repair these old power units. Finding a used one is nearly impossible, and there are 3 different series that are not cross-compatible.
Last week, we received two units, one from ZG and one from VŽ, both with the same problem but this time with an issue we hadn’t encountered, meaning we have to spend another 20-30 hours investigating the cause and how to solve it. After 2 weeks, both owners were saved from the guillotine, and the OBC was repaired. The vehicle doesn’t have to go to the scrapyard, and the mission of the vehicle continues to prove that the lifespan of an EV isn’t just 7 but over 11 years with the original battery and motor. A fairly solid, not overly luxurious EV, but excellent for city commutes and short distances to work without clogging your DPF every Friday.
HRVATSKI
Peugeot Ion Citreon C0 i Misubishi iMiev – Jedno te isto vozilo, jedan od neslomljivih pionira i jedan od rijetkih koji je nadživio vecinu konkurencije iz tog segmenta. Te davne 2012 sa 24 godine dok sam sanjario kako kupiti Teslu koja se tek promovirala, nisam ni za ovaj Ion imao love ali bio bi dovoljan za vecinu potreba samo da mi dizelas ne guta sve sto zaradim. Na Ionu ne radimo apsolutno nista osim OBC modula, koji je integrirani modul “ispravljac” u vozilu a koji pegla 220AC u DC400. Mnogi mainstream dezinformatori bi se začudili kad bi uspjeli “progutati” činjenicu da na skoro svim EV (osim nissan leaf) nije najveci problem baterija već elektromotori ili OBC ovisno od modela do modela. OBC strada najčešće zbog nekog uzroka pregrijavanja, nestabilne mreže napajanja/prekidanja, grom ili samog zamora materijala u čipovima pa jedna komponenta skuri pola kontrolera. OBC za ovo vozilo, u ovlastenom servisu košta novo nevjerovatnih 8000€ zbog čega mnogima nije isplativo vise ni popravljati ove stare strujice. Rabljen je skoro nemoguce naci i postoje 3 razlicite serije i nisu kompatabilne unakrsno.
Prosli tjedan dobili smo dva komada, jedan iz ZG i jedan i VŽ, oba sa istim problemom ali ovaj put sa problemom sa kojim se nismo sretali sto znaci opet moramo potrositi 20-30 sati istrazivati sto je uzrok i kako rijesiti. Nakon 2 tjedna oba vlasnika su spašena giljotine i OBC repariran, vozilo ne mora na otpad a misija vozila nastavlja i dalje dokazivati da vjek EV nije 7 vec preko 11 godina sa original baterijom i motorom. Sasvim solidan, ne pretjerano luksuzan EV ali odličan za grada i na posao par kilometara a da vam se ne začepi DPF svaki petak.
Die Smart 453 EQ hatte einen schweren Ausfall, und der Hersteller in Deutschland verlangte 8000 € für Reparaturen, obwohl die tatsächlichen Kosten für Teile nur 2 € betrugen. Der Ausfall hing mit der Unfähigkeit zusammen, an Typ 2 zu laden. OEMs ersetzen in der Regel den gesamten Antriebsstrang, ohne zu versuchen, das fehlerhafte Teil zu ersetzen oder weitere Untersuchungen durchzuführen, aber hier setzt EV Clinic an – um tiefer einzutauchen und Lösungen auf Komponentenebene zu finden. Die europäische Automobilindustrie neigt dazu, auffällige Außen- und Innenräume über gut gestaltete Autos und qualitativ hochwertige Antriebsstränge zu stellen und belastet letztendlich Besitzer und Käufer mit schlecht gestalteten Produkten. Im Fall des 453EQ deutete der Fehler auf ein mögliches Problem mit dem OBC hin. Nachdem der gesamte Antriebsstrang untersucht und keine Probleme festgestellt wurden, entdeckten wir eine versteckte Sicherung im Ladekabelanschluss. Wenn diese Sicherung durchbrennt, gibt es kein redundantes Sicherheitssystem, um dies zu melden. OEMs berechnen 8000 €, um später festzustellen, dass es eine 2 €-Sicherung im Kabel ist, und verlangen zusätzlich 850 € für die Enthüllung. Damit die europäische Automobilindustrie nachhaltig ist, besteht ein dringender Bedarf an mehr Investitionen in Fehlersuche und besseres Produktdesign.
Besorgniserregend ist, dass beim Austausch des gesamten Antriebsstrangs für 8000 € 4-5 weitere verschiedene Defekte auftreten. Das bedeutet, dass ein DCDC-Ausfall 8000 € kostet, ein OBC 8000 € kostet, ein Wechselrichter 8000 € kostet. Deshalb neigen wir eher zum älteren 451ED, der eine deutlich höhere Qualität aufweist und nachhaltigere Servicemöglichkeiten bietet.
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The Smart 453 EQ experienced a severe breakdown, and the manufacturer in Germany demanded €8000 for repairs when the actual cost for parts was only €2. The failure was related to the inability to charge on type2. OEMs typically replace the entire powertrain without attempting to replace the faulty part or conduct further investigation, but that’s where EV Clinic steps in – to delve deeper and find solutions at the component level. The European automotive industry tends to prioritize flashy exteriors and interiors over well-designed cars and quality powertrains, ultimately burdening owners and buyers with poorly designed products. In the case of the 453EQ, the error indicated a probable issue with the OBC. Upon investigating the entire powertrain and finding no problems, we discovered a hidden fuse within the charge port cable. If this fuse burns out, there’s no redundant failsafe system to report it. OEMs charge €8000 only to later realize it’s a €2 fuse in the cable, adding an extra €850 for the revelation. For the EU automotive industry to be sustainable, there’s a crucial need for increased investment in troubleshooting and better product design.
Concerning is that they have 4-5 more different defect when they change complete powertrain for 8000€. That means DCDC failure is 8000€, obc is 8000€, inverter is 8000€. That’s why we lean towards the older 451ED, which boasts significantly higher quality and offers more sustainable servicing options.
Failure of the OBC integrated module responsible for charging the battery in an EV. There are no used ones available, and even new ones are unavailable. If a used one were available, it used to cost around €3500-5000 (according to Google), and a new one likely costs even more. This situation puts the responsibility of deciding whether the vehicle becomes subject for spare parts or goes back on the road, and decision is in our hands, so the decision’s outcome is crucial. There’s no repair manual available, and we’ve reached a point where we have no one to ask for help, especially when dealing with an exotic car like the 500E. It’s even more exotic than a Ferrari. The OBC is burned out for some reason, and what we mostly encounter is that in EVs, the OBC module is frequently more in defect. This contradicts the misinformation spread by the media that batteries are mostly the problem; that’s an inaccurate lie. Our main issue is with the OBC module, which often gets damaged due to external influences that accelerate component fatigue within the module, as well as other unforeseen events like lightning strikes, power grid shorts, strong oscillations from other inductive consumers, etc. After two weeks of testing almost all individual components and replacing the damaged ones, the OBC still doesn’t work. Today’s final attempt was to intuitively replace one more component; if that didn’t work, we’d have to inform the owner that the “patient didn’t make it”. We were five minutes away from the fateful call to inform customer bad news when we connected the charger and it started working, it was great moment. The owner was saved from ‘euthanizing’ the Fiat. So, all you diesel turbo fans with engine oil leaks, don’t worry about the “challenging battery recycling” when EV dies because this Fiat keeps on going killing the stereotypes.
Kvar OBC integriranog modula koji sluzi za punjenje baterije u EV. Rabljen ne postoji a ne postoji ni novi. Rabljen ako je i postojao je kostao oko 3500-5000€ (google) a novi vjerovatno i više. Znači situacija gdje jedan dio odlučuje jel vozilo ide u dijelove ili ide natrag na cestu, tako da odgovornost gdje mi odlučujemi o ishodu je velika. Upustvo za reparaciju ne postoji a mi smo dosli do tog nivoa i broja problema da mi nemam koga pitati za pomoci, niti nam tko može i pomoći pogotovo kad je egzotika u pitanju kao 500E. Egzoticniji uzorak i od ferarija. OBC je iz nekog razloga spaljen, a ono što se mi susrećemo najcesce je to da na EV najcesce strada OBC modul, znaci to sto vas infodemijski mediji dezinformiraju da su baterije problem, to je naprotiv netocna laž. Najvise problema imamo sa OBC modulom koji strada najcesce zbog vanjskih utjecaja koji ubrzavaju zamor komponenti u modulu a i ostali neplanirani dogadjaji kao grom, kratak spoj u mreži objekta, jake oscilacije drugih induktivnih potrošača itd. Nakon 2 tjedna ispitivanja skoro svih pojedinacnih komponenti i mjenjanja ostecenih, OBC i dalje ne radi. Zadnji pokusaj je bio danas da na predosjecaj zamjenimo jos jednu komponentu ako ne proradi, zvati vlasnika da je pacijenat podlegao. 5 minuta nas dijeli od sudbonosnog poziva, spajamo punjač i punjač proradio. Vlasnik spašen eutanazije fiata. Tako da svi dizel turbo fanovi kojima curi ulje sa motora pjesacima u ćevape, nemate brige za bateriju jer fićo vozi dalje, ne treba se “reciklirati”.
The dilemma that concerned me five years ago when I was choosing my first used Tesla. I had no one to ask, but the comfort offered to me was the 8-year warranty on the motor and battery. But with that factory warranty, I wondered what would happen later, after it expired, and how to repair the battery and motor. The imposed fear of this became the cornerstone of EV CLINIC, a mission not only to debunk myths and stereotypes but also to sustainably solve future issues of electric vehicles, not just for oneself but for others as well. Switching to an EV increased my comfort: the ride is smoother and quieter, improved my routine because I charge at home, and every morning, a full tank awaits me for €10, enhancing my quality of life by not spending on fuel, regular breakdowns, and fossil car services.
Readers have often asked which Tesla to choose, so let’s briefly, clearly, and without much elaboration explain the criteria for buying a Tesla, its pros, and cons.
Tesla has one of the best and cheapest powertrain systems in the world but the biggest downside related to Tesla vehicles isn’t just the vehicle itself but the degraded experience in authorized service centers, where an increasingly inexperienced young team of mechanics and technicians works there. The most significant disappointment for many owners comes from the poor service experience, where problems remain unresolved, and new issues arise. Tesla’s middle management has decided to prioritize sales over service, thereby fundamentally undermining the Tesla post-sales experience. Early adopters know very well what I’m talking about.
Model S and X
Several times I switched from the Model S to the Model 3 and back; I’ve driven both the Model Y and Model X, but the king of the asphalt is the Model S with air suspension because it’s the most comfortable and quiet for driving.
The primary criterion for most Tesla buyers is always PRICE, FREE SUPERCHARGER, and then RANGE and other criteria. Note: Only vehicles produced until April 2017 have FREE SUC (sc01) linked to the car and stay with the car. Note 2: Some vehicles do not have FREE SUC before 2017 if: transferred from an older Tesla to a newer one, the owner damaged the car and didn’t repair it at an authorized service, transferred FREE SUC to a new vehicle, or purchased in Norway from a dealer, losing free charging.
All Model S and X vehicles manufactured until March 2020 have an 8-year warranty and UNLIMITED MILEAGE. Note 4: It’s advisable to check if a Tesla is UNSUPPORTED, meaning it has been salvaged, and the insurance declared it a total loss. In that case, Tesla deems it unsafe for the road and permanently deactivates the SUPERCHARGER. This means no charging at their stations.
The most reliable Model S models you can buy are those marked with xxD, indicating DUAL DRIVE, with two small reliable electric motors cooled with oil, never experiencing issues with water or moisture penetrating the stator zone.
The most reliable models are the 70D, 75D with a power output of 240kW, and the 85D, 90D, 100D with a power output of 315kW.
The 75D stands out as the winner on the entire list because of its usable battery capacity of 72.4kWh, which is the same capacity as the Model S 85 but with 14 blocks in the battery, not 16, making the vehicle 50 kilograms lighter. Additionally, the 75D excels in fast charging with ease, pulling 128KW of power and charging 200km of range in 20 minutes, even on vehicles with over 300,000 kilometers.
The reliability of the 75D model has been proven with vehicles reaching 300,000 kilometers and still running on original half shafts, a case not typical for the 85D, 90D, 100D, which incur additional costs of 2000 euros every 100,000 kilometers due to the higher power of 315kW and stronger torque on the front wheels tearing the CV joint of the half shaft.
Models marked as PxxD (P85D, P90D, P100D) are less reliable because they use a LARGE DRIVE UNIT on the rear axles, the same LDU motor found in S85 and P85 models, which may have issues with coolant seepage into the stator, potentially costing 7500 euros every 100,000 kilometers at an authorized service. However, repairing this motor preventively ensures its safety for the next 300,000 kilometers.
Models carrying labels S60, S70, S75, S85, S90, P85, P90 are RWD models without front-wheel drive, with a front trunk three times larger than all other models. These models have a primary issue with the electric motor, which hasn’t gained popularity due to a simple seal failure on the rotor, causing coolant to damage the motor. However, this motor has been documented to exceed 800,000 kilometers. Therefore, when buying this model, it’s advisable to perform timely preventive repairs to change the rotor cooling design to prevent coolant leakage with a newer generation Teflon seal. Therefore, this model S that you buy should be at least 5000 euros cheaper than a Dual drive model to make it worthwhile. The preventive motor repair with us costs 2800 euros + VAT 25%, totaling 3500 euros to prevent any issues on the motor for the next 6-7 years.
The S85 model I drive has a 100kWh battery installed and a patched motor prototype, and the vehicle has free supercharging for life. This RWD Model S is irreplaceable for several reasons. I particularly appreciate its spacious front trunk, fitting three travel bags. The rear trunk is incredible too; for instance, when I go to IKEA, I fold down the rear seats and have a space from the seats to the rear plastic of 2 meters and 3 centimeters, allowing me to accommodate IKEA furniture or other items and close the trunk. My Model S has 382,000 kilometers on the odometer, original air suspension, and I’ve only now replaced the front brake discs and pads (never replaced before). I’ve replaced all suspension components for about 1200 euros in materials.
For the maximum range, like for taxi services or long business trips, consider nothing less than the Model S 100D. Some might expect it to have free charging, but such a 100D in Europe was never sold.
Issues for models 60, 70, 75, 85, 90, P85, P90:
PTC Heater for cabin: NEW 700 euros, REPAIR 300 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
PTC for battery: NEW 400 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
Screen glue leak : NEW 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
Issues for Models 75D, 85D, 90D, 100D:
PTC Heater for cabin: NEW 700 euros, REPAIR 300 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
PTC for battery: NEW 400 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
Door handles: NEW 250 euros, REPAIR 80 euros
Front half shafts: NEW in Tesla parts and labor 1800 euros (every 100,000 kilometers)
Window lift mechanism: NEW 280 euros (every 150,000 kilometers for the driver)
Wiper mechanism: NEW 400 euros (every 200,000 kilometers)
Suspension, forks, brakes: ALL NEW about 1200 euros, brake discs and pads 700 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
MOTORS ARE NOT A PROBLEM: NEW 3300 euros (every 600,000 kilometers)
BATTERY IS NOT A PROBLEM: NEW 18000 euros, REPAIR 1000-5500 euros (every 600,000 kilometers, RESEAL every 300,000 kilometers)
Screen glue leak : NEW 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
Issues for Models P85D, P90D, P100D:
PTC Heater for cabin: NEW 700 euros, REPAIR 300 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
PTC for battery: NEW 400 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
Door handles: NEW 250 euros, REPAIR 80 euros
Front half shafts: NEW in Tesla parts and labor 1800 euros (every 100,000 kilometers)
Window lift mechanism: NEW 280 euros (every 150,000 kilometers for the driver)
Wiper mechanism: NEW 400 euros (every 200,000 kilometers)
Suspension, forks, brakes: ALL NEW about 1200 euros, brake discs and pads 700 euros (every 300,000 kilometers)
LDU Motor: NEW 7500 euros, REPAIR 3500 euros (every 50,000 kilometers, or 300,000 kilometers if repaired preventively)
BATTERY IS NOT A PROBLEM: NEW 18000 euros, REPAIR 1000-5500 euros (every 600,000 kilometers, RESEAL every 300,000 kilometers)
Screen glue leak : NEW 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
ADVANTAGES: S60, 70, 75, 85, 90:
LARGE front trunk
Free supercharger for life
Softer ride
Have the best and simplest Autopilot AP1 that works
75D, 85D, 90D, 100D:
Some 75, 85, 90 have FREE SUPERCHARGER for life.
All-wheel drive
Reliable battery and motor
Some are still under warranty depending on the year
Adequate acceleration
Fast charging on supercharger
Some have the best and simplest Autopilot AP1 that works (if there are no side cameras)
P85D, P90D, P100D:
All-wheel drive
Acceleration in 3-3.5 seconds
Some are still under warranty depending on the year
Fast charging on supercharger
Reliable battery and front motor
PREFERRED VEHICLE FEATURES:
MCU2 retrofit – value 1550 euros
CCS Upgrade – value 150 euros
GLASS ROOF or HARD ROOF – even quieter and more comfortable
TOW BAR – value 2000 euros FREE SUPERCHARGER – value 5000 euros
Selection for different criteria:
TOP PERFORMANCE: P90D, P100D
MEDIUM PERFORMANCE: 85D, 90D, 100D
RANGE: 100D
CHEAPER OPTIONS: 85, 90, P85, P85D
What do all these numbers and descriptions mean now? Not to scare you but to provide insight into potential costs and factor in unforeseen expenses of 2000 euros when buying. Some owners who bought an EV with their last savings get disappointed with the first breakdown, forgetting they’re buying a vehicle with 500 horsepower and 7-8 years of age. Most vehicles purchased in the EU and imported are usually well-maintained, cared for, and often don’t encounter sudden expenses. However, rare owners experienced one problem after another, believe it or not, with vehicles with low mileage, around 100,000 kilometers. Personally, I buy the cheapest one under 20,000 euros, address minor issues, and drive for free.
The kilometers on a Tesla aren’t critical because most vehicles with high mileage are in extremely good condition inside and out. The Model S used exceptionally high-quality materials both inside and outside. The entire vehicle and body are made of aluminum, so corrosion will never be an issue.
During the vehicle inspection before purchase, check that the motor doesn’t make any buzzing noises (there should be no sound). When changing direction from Drive to Reverse, there should be no clunking (indicating a broken rubber mount). Check for any rattling in the suspension while driving, ensure the vehicle charges at the supercharger (if it doesn’t, there might be manipulation or a fault). These checks will make you an expert buyer. Anything found wrong with the vehicle doesn’t determine the outcome of the purchase but rather the vehicle’s price from the seller. Some models might have, for example, a CCS adapter for fast charging, some might have MCU2 middle screens of the new generation with YouTube and Netflix, and some might have all door handles revised to revision 3. These are things that increase the value of the vehicle. Lastly, inspect the battery from the underside, crouch down and visually check for any dents on the housing. If the dents are larger than 8mm, then a vehicle still under warranty loses the battery warranty. Scratches and the like aren’t an issue; holes and larger dents could be problematic. You can crouch down, use a lamp and your phone’s camera to inspect the underside of the battery or use a lift.
Buy only and exclusively in these countries: GERMANY, AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, DENMARK, NETHERLANDS, ITALY, FRANCE, SWEDEN, NORWAY
Vehicles from Poland, Romania, Bulgaria are, in most cases, poorly maintained, USA imports come with deactivated superchargers and other issues like manipulated mileage (so far, I’ve only come across one in Bulgaria).
If an S85 costs 20,000 euros and a 75D costs 35,000 euros, without FREE charging, the S85 seems like a more logical choice due to the 15,000-euro price difference. However, if you travel a lot and need fast charging, then the 75D is a more logical choice. Model S can be found from 16,000 euros with free charging and potentially minor issues.
Very often, you can come across a faulty one for 10,000 euros. If it’s the motor, the cost would be around 3,500, and you’d have a car with a warranty. If it’s the battery, the cost would be around 5,000. If the car is good, if you don’t buy it, I will.
If I remember anything else for this list, I’ll add it later.
MODEL 3 and Y
The primary criterion for most Tesla buyers is always PRICE, followed by RANGE and other criteria.
Note: Only vehicles produced until April 2021 have unlocked GTW for coding and unlocking. Note 2: Only vehicles from March 2021 have the Heat Pump system. Note 3: All Model 3 and Y vehicles have an 8-year warranty, SR up to 160,000 km, and LR and Performance up to 192,000 km.
The most reliable Model 3 and Y is each existing model. SR only has rear-wheel drive, while LR and P have all-wheel drive. Some “unicorn” exceptions exist, such as when Model 3 LR has only rear-wheel drive, making it the most sought-after model with the longest range.
Issues for Model 3 models up to 2021:
PTC Heater for cabin: NEW 700 euros, Repair 300 euros (every 200,000 km)
LDU motor mounts: NEW 80 euros, Repair 80 euros (every 200,000 km)
Battery: NEW 18,000 euros, Repair 1,000-5,500 euros (every 600,000 km or every 300,000 km if charged to 100% or little on DC)
Suspension forks/brakes: ALL NEW about 1,200 euros, brake pads 700 (every 150,000 km)
Front upper suspension arms squeak, water enters the ball joint: NEW 160eur, AFTERMARKET 320eur (every 40000km).
Moisture in rear lamps: NEW piece 200 euros
Charge port error – MASS: Repair 100 euros
Cabin filter 2x: NEW 40 euros (every 6 months)
OBC: NEW 1,200 euros (located in the battery, every 250,000 km)
Some cosmetic defects, rubber around the door, squeaking window lift, brakes corrode from disuse
Issues for Model 3 SR up to 2020 with NMC batteries:
Battery: NEW 18,000 euros, Repair 1,000-5,500 euros (every 250,000 km) Front upper suspension arms squeak, water enters the ball joint: NEW 160eur, AFTERMARKET 320eur (every 40000km).
OBC: NEW 1,200 euros (located in the battery, every 250,000 km)
Some cosmetic defects, rubber around the door, squeaking window lifting, brakes corrode because rarely used.
Advantages of Model 3 and Y depend on the buyer’s needs; it’s an advantage for some and nothing for others. For some, the interior is quite monotonous and spartan, tasteless, while others adore it (and I appreciate the simplicity). The seats are extremely comfortable, but the ride is somewhat less comfortable than Model S and X. Tire noise/micro-vibrations are transmitted to the cabin at higher speeds, and it’s stiffer for longer rides than Model S. The existence of a panoramic glass is also a downside, causing fatigue and headaches in the summer. This is a problem shared by all manufacturers who’ve thought to put glass above the driver is good idea, causing interference. The glass lacks UV protection, making it unbearable in summer without shades. A significant advantage of Model 3 and Y is fast charging; at V3 250 kW chargers, the vehicle is fully charged in 20 minutes, allowing you to quickly run errands or grab a coffee.
Model Y shares the same recommendations as Model 3, with the difference in comfort due to its higher height. It’s easier to get in and out of the vehicle. The trunk is larger, and access is through the fifth door.
The new Model 3 Higland is an absolute wonder and revolution in design and interior and exterior quality. The cabin is quieter during the drive, and the seats are even more comfortable.
Model 3 starts from 25,000 euros in German ads, which is an exceptionally good price. For those who travel a lot, charge at home, and use the supercharger, this vehicle will pay off entirely over 200,000 km. According to me, even the first LR models without the Heat Pump system have fewer issues, and the savings from that optimization may not be noticeable because we have a mild climate in the Balkans. Your biggest expense will be the front forks, which creak when water enters the ball, cabin filter, and supercharger charging at 0.38 euros per kWh.
WHAT I DRIVE: Tesla S85 2014 AP1 Free SUC AP1 380,000 km Smart 451ED 2014 Tuned battery 80,000 km Smart 453EQ 2019 35,000 km eGolf 2015 24kwh 250,000 km
Die Zwickmühle, die mich vor fünf Jahren beschäftigte, als ich meinen ersten gebrauchten Tesla auswählte. Ich hatte niemanden, den ich fragen konnte, aber der Komfort, der mir geboten wurde, war die 8-jährige Garantie auf den Motor und die Batterie. Aber mit dieser Werksgarantie fragte ich mich, was später passieren würde, nachdem sie abgelaufen war, und wie man die Batterie und den Motor reparieren könnte. Die aufgezwungene Angst davor wurde zum Eckpfeiler von EV CLINIC, einer Mission, die nicht nur dazu diente, Mythen und Stereotypen zu entlarven, sondern auch zukünftige Probleme von Elektrofahrzeugen nachhaltig zu lösen, nicht nur für sich selbst, sondern auch für andere. Der Wechsel zu einem Elektroauto steigerte meinen Komfort: Die Fahrt ist ruhiger und leiser, verbesserte meinen Alltag, weil ich zu Hause lade, und jeden Morgen erwartet mich ein voller Tank für 10 Euro, was meine Lebensqualität steigert, indem ich nicht für Treibstoff, regelmäßige Pannen und Serviceleistungen bei fossilen Autos bezahlen muss.
Leser haben oft gefragt, welchen Tesla sie wählen sollen. Lassen Sie uns daher kurz, klar und ohne viel Ausarbeitung die Kriterien für den Kauf eines Tesla, seine Vor- und Nachteile erklären.
Tesla verfügt über eines der besten und günstigsten Antriebssysteme der Welt, aber es gibt auch einen größte Nachteil bei Tesla-Fahrzeugen besteht nicht nur im Fahrzeug selbst, sondern auch in der verschlechterten Erfahrung in autorisierten Servicezentren, in denen ein zunehmend unerfahrenes junges Team von Mechanikern und Technikern arbeitet. Die größte Enttäuschung vieler Besitzer kommt aus der schlechten Serviceerfahrung, in der Probleme ungelöst bleiben und neue Probleme entstehen. Das mittlere Management von Tesla hat beschlossen, den Verkauf gegenüber dem Service zu priorisieren und damit das Tesla-Kauferlebnis grundlegend zu untergraben. Frühzeitige Anwender wissen sehr gut, wovon ich spreche.
Model S und X
Mehrmals wechselte ich zwischen dem Model S und dem Model 3 hin und her; ich habe sowohl das Model Y als auch das Model X gefahren, aber der König des Asphalts ist das Model S mit Luftfederung, weil es am komfortabelsten und ruhigsten zu fahren ist.
Das Hauptkriterium für die meisten Tesla-Käufer ist immer der PREIS, KOSTENLOSES SUPERCHARGING und dann die REICHWEITE und andere Kriterien. Hinweis: Nur Fahrzeuge, die bis April 2017 produziert wurden, haben kostenloses SUC (sc01), das mit dem Auto verknüpft ist und beim Auto bleibt. Hinweis 2: Einige Fahrzeuge haben vor 2017 kein kostenloses SUC, wenn: sie von einem älteren Tesla auf einen neueren übertragen wurden, der Besitzer das Auto beschädigt hat und es nicht bei einem autorisierten Service repariert wurde, das kostenlose SUC auf ein neues Fahrzeug übertragen wurde oder es in Norwegen von einem Händler gekauft wurde und dadurch das kostenlose Laden verloren ging.
Alle Model S- und X-Fahrzeuge, die bis März 2020 hergestellt wurden, haben eine 8-jährige Garantie und UNBEGRENZTE KILOMETERLEISTUNG. Hinweis 4: Es ist ratsam zu überprüfen, ob ein Tesla UNSUPPORTED ist, was bedeutet, dass er geborgen wurde und von der Versicherung als Totalschaden eingestuft wurde. In diesem Fall stuft Tesla das Fahrzeug als nicht sicher für die Straße ein und deaktiviert dauerhaft den SUPERCHARGER. Dies bedeutet, dass kein Laden an ihren Stationen möglich ist.
Die zuverlässigsten Model S-Modelle, die Sie kaufen können, sind diejenigen, die mit xxD gekennzeichnet sind, was auf DUAL DRIVE hinweist, mit zwei kleinen, zuverlässigen elektrischen Motoren, die mit Öl gekühlt werden und nie Probleme mit eindringendem Wasser oder Feuchtigkeit in die Statorzone hatten.
Die zuverlässigsten Modelle sind der 70D, 75D mit einer Leistung von 240 kW und der 85D, 90D, 100D mit einer Leistung von 315 kW.
Der 75D ragt als Gewinner der gesamten Liste heraus aufgrund seiner nutzbaren Batteriekapazität von 72,4 kWh, die dieselbe Kapazität wie das Model S 85, aber mit 14 Blöcken in der Batterie, nicht 16, aufweist und das Fahrzeug um 50 Kilogramm leichter macht. Darüber hinaus punktet der 75D im schnellen Laden mühelos, zieht 128 kW Leistung und lädt in 20 Minuten 200 km Reichweite auf, auch bei Fahrzeugen mit über 300.000 Kilometern.
Die Zuverlässigkeit des 75D-Modells wurde bei Fahrzeugen nachgewiesen, die 300.000 Kilometer erreicht haben und immer noch mit originalen Halbwellen laufen, was bei den 85D, 90D, 100D nicht typisch ist, da hier aufgrund der höheren Leistung von 315 kW und des stärkeren Drehmoments auf den Vorderrädern der CV-Gelenk der Halbwelle zusätzliche Kosten von 2000 Euro alle 100.000 Kilometer anfallen.
Modelle mit der Kennzeichnung PxxD (P85D, P90D, P100D) sind weniger zuverlässig, da sie eine GROSSE ANTRIEBSEINHEIT an den Hinterrädern verwenden, denselben LDU-Motor, der in den Modellen S85 und P85 zu finden ist, der möglicherweise Probleme mit Kühlmittelaustritt in den Stator hat, was potenziell alle 100.000 Kilometer 7500 Euro bei einem autorisierten Service kosten könnte. Allerdings gewährleistet die vorbeugende Reparatur dieses Motors seine Sicherheit für die nächsten 300.000 Kilometer.
Modelle mit der Bezeichnung S60, S70, S75, S85, S90, P85, P90 sind Hinterradantriebsmodelle ohne Allradantrieb, mit einem vorderen Kofferraum, der dreimal größer ist als bei allen anderen Modellen. Diese Modelle haben ein Hauptproblem mit dem Elektromotor, das aufgrund eines einfachen Dichtungsversagens am Rotor nicht beliebt geworden ist und dazu führt, dass das Kühlmittel den Motor beschädigt. Dieser Motor hat jedoch eine dokumentierte Laufleistung von mehr als 800.000 Kilometern. Daher ist es ratsam, bei Kauf dieses Modells rechtzeitig vorbeugende Reparaturen durchzuführen, um das Rotorkühlungsdesign zu ändern und ein Auslaufen des Kühlmittels mit einer neueren Teflondichtung zu verhindern. Daher sollte dieses Model S, das Sie kaufen, mindestens 5000 Euro günstiger sein als ein Dual-Drive-Modell, damit es sich lohnt. Die vorbeugende Motorreparatur kostet bei uns 2800 Euro + Mehrwertsteuer 25 % und summiert sich auf 3500 Euro, um Probleme am Motor für die nächsten 6-7 Jahre zu verhindern.
Das von mir gefahrene S85-Modell hat eine installierte 100-kWh-Batterie und einen modifizierten Motorentyp und das Fahrzeug hat lebenslang kostenloses Supercharging. Dieses Model S mit Hinterradantrieb ist aus mehreren Gründen unersetzlich. Ich schätze besonders seinen geräumigen vorderen Kofferraum, der drei Reisetaschen aufnimmt. Der hintere Kofferraum ist ebenfalls unglaublich; wenn ich zum Beispiel zu IKEA gehe, klappen ich die Rücksitze um und habe einen Raum von den Sitzen bis zum hinteren Kunststoff von 2 Metern und 3 Zentimetern, der es mir ermöglicht, IKEA-Möbel oder andere Gegenstände unterzubringen und den Kofferraum zu schließen. Mein Model S hat 382.000 Kilometer auf dem Tacho, originale Luftfederung, und ich habe gerade erst die vorderen Bremsscheiben und Beläge ausgetauscht (nie zuvor ausgetauscht). Ich habe alle Fahrwerkskomponenten für etwa 1200 Euro an Materialien ausgetauscht.
Für maximale Reichweite, wie bei Taxidiensten oder langen Geschäftsreisen, sollten Sie nichts weniger als das Model S 100D in Betracht ziehen. Ein solcher 100D wurde jedoch in Europa nie mit kostenlosem Laden verkauft.
Probleme für Modelle 60, 70, 75, 85, 90, P85, P90:
PTC-Heizung für die Kabine: NEU 700 Euro, REPARATUR 300 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
PTC für die Batterie: NEU 400 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
LDU-Motor: NEU 7500 Euro, REPARATUR 3500 Euro (alle 50.000 Kilometer)
Batterie: NEU 18000 Euro, REPARATUR 1000-5500 Euro (alle 600.000 Kilometer mit vorbeugender NEUVERSIEGELUNG, alle 150.000 Kilometer ohne)
Türgriffe: NEU 250 Euro, REPARATUR 80 Euro
Fensterhebemechanismus: NEU 280 Euro (alle 150.000 Kilometer für den Fahrer)
Wischmechanismus: NEU 400 Euro (alle 200.000 Kilometer)
Federung, Gabeln, Bremsen: ALLES NEU etwa 1200 Euro, Bremsscheiben und -beläge 700 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
LANGSAMES LADEN AN SCHNELLLADESTATIONEN (es sei denn, es gibt eine neue 350V 88kWh Batterie mit der Teilenummer 1014116)
OBC GEN2 Ladegerät: NEU 2500 Euro, REPARATUR 1200 Euro (alle 250.000 Kilometer, das Stromnetz beschädigt sie)
Bildschirmleimleckage: NEU 800 Euro, MCU2 1500 Euro, EVC 450 Euro
Probleme für Modelle 75D, 85D, 90D, 100D:
PTC-Heizung für die Kabine: NEU 700 Euro, REPARATUR 300 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
PTC für die Batterie: NEU 400 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
Türgriffe: NEU 250 Euro, REPARATUR 80 Euro
Vordere Halbwellen: NEU in Tesla Teilen und Arbeitskosten 1800 Euro (alle 100.000 Kilometer)
Fensterhebemechanismus: NEU 280 Euro (alle 150.000 Kilometer für den Fahrer)
Wischmechanismus: NEU 400 Euro (alle 200.000 Kilometer)
Federung, Gabeln, Bremsen: ALLES NEU etwa 1200 Euro, Bremsscheiben und -beläge 700 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
MOTOREN SIND KEIN PROBLEM: NEU 3300 Euro (alle 600.000 Kilometer)
BATTERIE IST KEIN PROBLEM: NEU 18000 Euro, REPARATUR 1000-5500 Euro (alle 600.000 Kilometer, NEUVERSIEGELUNG alle 300.000 Kilometer)
Bildschirmleimleckage: NEU 800 Euro, MCU2 1500 Euro, EVC 450 Euro
Probleme für Modelle P85D, P90D, P100D:
PTC-Heizung für die Kabine: NEU 700 Euro, REPARATUR 300 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
PTC für die Batterie: NEU 400 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
Türgriffe: NEU 250 Euro, REPARATUR 80 Euro
Vordere Halbwellen: NEU in Tesla Teilen und Arbeitskosten 1800 Euro (alle 100.000 Kilometer)
Fensterhebemechanismus: NEU 280 Euro (alle 150.000 Kilometer für den Fahrer)
Wischmechanismus: NEU 400 Euro (alle 200.000 Kilometer)
Federung, Gabeln, Bremsen: ALLES NEU etwa 1200 Euro, Bremsscheiben und -beläge 700 Euro (alle 300.000 Kilometer)
LDU-Motor: NEU 7500 Euro, REPARATUR 3500 Euro (alle 50.000 Kilometer, oder alle 300.000 Kilometer bei vorbeugender Reparatur)
BATTERIE IST KEIN PROBLEM: NEU 18000 Euro, REPARATUR 1000-5500 Euro (alle 600.000 Kilometer, NEUVERSIEGELUNG alle 300.000 Kilometer)
Bildschirmleimleckage: NEU 800 Euro, MCU2 1500 Euro, EVC 450 Euro
VORTEILE: S60, 70, 75, 85, 90:
GROßER vorderer Kofferraum
Kostenloses lebenslanges Supercharging
Weicheres Fahrgefühl
Haben den besten und einfachsten Autopiloten AP1, der funktioniert
75D, 85D, 90D, 100D:
Einige 75, 85, 90 haben lebenslanges kostenloses Supercharging.
Allradantrieb
Zuverlässige Batterie und Motor
Einige sind je nach Jahr noch in der Garantie
Angemessene Beschleunigung
Schnelles Laden am Supercharger
Einige haben den besten und einfachsten Autopiloten AP1, der funktioniert (wenn keine Seitenkameras vorhanden sind)
P85D, P90D, P100D:
Allradantrieb
Beschleunigung in 3-3,5 Sekunden
Einige sind je nach Jahr noch in der Garantie
Schnelles Laden am Supercharger
Zuverlässige Batterie und Vordermotor
BEVORZUGTE FAHRZEUGMERKMALE:
MCU2 Nachrüstung – Wert 1550 Euro
CCS-Upgrade – Wert 150 Euro
GLASDACH oder FESTES DACH – noch leiser und komfortabler
ANHÄNGERKUPPLUNG – Wert 2000 Euro KOSTENLOSES SUPERCHARGING – Wert 5000 Euro
Auswahlkriterien:
TOP-PERFORMANCE: P90D, P100D
MITTLERE LEISTUNG: 85D, 90D, 100D
REICHWEITE: 100D
BILLIGERE OPTIONEN: 85, 90, P85, P85D
Was bedeuten nun all diese Zahlen und Beschreibungen? Nicht, um Ihnen Angst zu machen, sondern um Einblick in potenzielle Kosten zu geben und unvorhergesehene Ausgaben von 2000 Euro beim Kauf zu berücksichtigen. Einige Besitzer, die ein Elektrofahrzeug mit ihren letzten Ersparnissen gekauft haben, sind enttäuscht von der ersten Panne und vergessen dabei, dass sie ein Fahrzeug mit 500 PS und 7-8 Jahren kaufen. Die meisten in der EU gekauften und importierten Fahrzeuge werden in der Regel gut gewartet, gepflegt und haben oft keine plötzlichen Ausgaben. Es gibt jedoch einige seltene Besitzer, die Problem um Problem erleben, glauben Sie es oder nicht, bei Fahrzeugen mit geringer Laufleistung, etwa 100.000 Kilometer. Persönlich kaufe ich das günstigste unter 20.000 Euro, kümmere mich um kleinere Probleme und fahre kostenlos.
Die Kilometer auf einem Tesla sind nicht entscheidend, da die meisten Fahrzeuge mit hoher Laufleistung sowohl innen als auch außen in einem extrem guten Zustand sind. Der Model S verwendet außergewöhnlich hochwertige Materialien sowohl im Innen- als auch im Außenbereich. Das gesamte Fahrzeug und die Karosserie bestehen aus Aluminium, Korrosion ist also nie ein Problem.
Während der Fahrzeuginspektion vor dem Kauf überprüfen Sie, dass der Motor keine Summgeräusche macht (es sollte kein Geräusch zu hören sein). Beim Wechseln von Vorwärts- in den Rückwärtsgang sollte es kein Klacken geben (das auf eine defekte Gummihalterung hinweisen kann). Überprüfen Sie auf irgendwelches Rasseln in der Federung während der Fahrt, stellen Sie sicher, dass das Fahrzeug am Supercharger lädt (wenn nicht, könnte Manipulation oder ein Fehler vorliegen). Diese Überprüfungen machen Sie zu einem Expertenkäufer. Alles, was mit dem Fahrzeug nicht stimmt, bestimmt nicht das Ergebnis des Kaufs, sondern vielmehr den Fahrzeugpreis vom Verkäufer. Einige Modelle könnten zum Beispiel einen CCS-Adapter für Schnellladung haben, einige könnten MCU2-Mittelbildschirme der neuen Generation mit YouTube und Netflix haben, und einige könnten alle Türgriffe auf Überarbeitung 3 überprüft haben. Dies sind Dinge, die den Wert des Fahrzeugs erhöhen. Untersuchen Sie abschließend die Batterie von unten, hocken Sie sich hin und überprüfen Sie visuell auf irgendwelche Beulen am Gehäuse. Wenn die Beulen größer als 8 mm sind, verliert ein Fahrzeug, das noch in der Garantie ist, die Batteriegarantie. Kratzer und ähnliches sind kein Problem; Löcher und größere Beulen könnten jedoch problematisch sein. Sie können sich hinhocken, eine Lampe und die Kamera Ihres Telefons verwenden, um die Unterseite der Batterie zu inspizieren, oder einen Hebebühne verwenden.
Kaufen Sie ausschließlich in diesen Ländern: DEUTSCHLAND, ÖSTERREICH, BELGIEN, DÄNEMARK, NIEDERLANDE, ITALIEN, FRANKREICH, SCHWEDEN, NORWEGEN
Fahrzeuge aus Polen, Rumänien, Bulgarien sind in den meisten Fällen schlecht gewartet, Importe aus den USA kommen mit deaktivierten Superchargern und anderen Problemen wie manipulierten Kilometerständen (bisher bin ich nur auf ein solches Fahrzeug in Bulgarien gestoßen).
Wenn ein S85 20.000 Euro kostet und ein 75D 35.000 Euro kostet, ohne kostenlose Aufladung, erscheint der S85 aufgrund des Preisunterschieds von 15.000 Euro logischer. Wenn Sie jedoch viel reisen und schnelles Aufladen benötigen, ist der 75D die logischere Wahl. Ein Model S ist ab 16.000 Euro mit kostenloser Ladung und möglicherweise geringfügigen Problemen erhältlich.
Sehr oft kann man ein fehlerhaftes Fahrzeug für 10.000 Euro finden. Wenn es der Motor ist, wären die Kosten etwa 3.500, und Sie hätten ein Auto mit Garantie. Wenn es die Batterie ist, wären die Kosten etwa 5.000. Wenn das Auto gut ist, und Sie es nicht kaufen, werde ich es tun.
Wenn mir noch etwas für diese Liste einfällt, werde ich es später hinzufügen.
Model 3 und Y
Das primäre Kriterium für die meisten Tesla-Käufer ist immer der PREIS, gefolgt von der REICHWEITE und anderen Kriterien.
Hinweis: Nur Fahrzeuge, die bis April 2021 hergestellt wurden, haben GTW für Codierung und Freischaltung. Hinweis 2: Nur Fahrzeuge ab März 2021 haben das Heat Pump-System. Hinweis 3: Alle Model 3- und Y-Fahrzeuge haben eine 8-jährige Garantie, SR bis zu 160.000 km und LR und Performance bis zu 192.000 km.
Das zuverlässigste Modell 3 und Y ist jedes vorhandene Modell. SR hat nur Hinterradantrieb, während LR und P Allradantrieb haben. Es gibt einige “Einhorn”-Ausnahmen, wie zum Beispiel wenn das Modell 3 LR nur Hinterradantrieb hat, was es zum meistgesuchten Modell mit der längsten Reichweite macht.
Probleme für Model 3-Modelle bis 2021:
PTC-Heizung für die Kabine: NEU 700 Euro, Reparatur 300 Euro (alle 200.000 km)
LDU-Motorhalterungen: NEU 80 Euro, Reparatur 80 Euro (alle 200.000 km)
Batterie: NEU 18.000 Euro, Reparatur 1.000-5.500 Euro (alle 600.000 km oder alle 300.000 km bei 100% Ladung oder wenig auf Gleichstrom)
Federungsgabeln/Bremsen: ALLES NEU ca. 1.200 Euro, Bremsbeläge 700 (alle 150.000 km)
Quietschen der vorderen oberen Federungsgabeln, Wasser tritt in die Kugelgelenke ein: NEU 160 Euro, NACHBAU 320 Euro (alle 40.000 km).
Feuchtigkeit in den hinteren Lampen: NEU Stück 200 Euro
Ladeporthinweis – MASSE: Reparatur 100 Euro
Kabinenfilter 2x: NEU 40 Euro (alle 6 Monate)
OBC: NEU 1.200 Euro (befindet sich in der Batterie, alle 250.000 km)
Lenkrad, Kunstleder löst sich ab: NEU 1.000 Euro, Aufbereitung 300 Euro
Einige kosmetische Mängel, Gummi um die Tür, quietschende Fensterheber, Bremsen korrodieren durch Nichtbenutzung
Probleme für Model 3 SR bis 2020 mit NMC-Batterien:
Batterie: NEU 18.000 Euro, Reparatur 1.000-5.500 Euro (alle 250.000 km)
Quietschen der vorderen oberen Federungsgabeln, Wasser tritt in die Kugelgelenke ein: NEU 160 Euro, NACHBAU 320 Euro (alle 40.000 km).
OBC: NEU 1.200 Euro (befindet sich in der Batterie, alle 250.000 km)
Lenkrad, veganes Leder löst sich ab: NEU 1.000 Euro, Aufbereitung 300 Euro
Einige kosmetische Mängel, Gummi um die Tür, quietschende Fensterheber, Bremsen korrodieren durch Nichtbenutzung
Ladeporthinweis – MASSE: Reparatur 100 Euro
Probleme für Model 3 SR+ LR und P ab 2021:
Batterie: NEU 18.000 Euro, Reparatur 1.000-5.500 Euro (alle 400.000 km-Claim)
Quietschen der vorderen oberen Federungsgabeln, Wasser tritt in die Kugelgelenke ein: NEU 160 Euro, NACHBAU 320 Euro (alle 40.000 km).
Federungsgabeln/Bremsen: ALLES NEU ca. 1.200 Euro, Bremsen und Beläge 700 (alle 150.000 km)
Problematisches HEAT PUMP-System, Schaumstoff kontaminiert das gesamte System, beschädigt den Kompressor. NEU: 1.800 Euro OCTO+COMP
OBC: NEU 1.200 Euro (befindet sich in der Batterie, alle 250.000 km)
Lenkrad, veganes Leder löst sich ab: NEU 1.000 Euro, Aufbereitung 300 Euro
Einige kosmetische Mängel, Gummi um die Tür, quietschende Fensterheber, Bremsen korrodieren, weil sie selten benutzt werden.
Die Vorteile von Model 3 und Y hängen von den Bedürfnissen des Käufers ab; für einige ist es ein Vorteil und für andere nichts. Für manche ist das Interieur ziemlich monoton und spartanisch, geschmacklos, während es von anderen verehrt wird (und ich schätze die Einfachheit). Die Sitze sind äußerst bequem, aber die Fahrt ist etwas weniger komfortabel als beim Model S und X. Reifengeräusche/Mikrovibrationen werden bei höheren Geschwindigkeiten in die Kabine übertragen, und auf längeren Fahrten ist es steifer als beim Model S. Die Existenz eines Panoramaglases ist ebenfalls ein Nachteil, da es im Sommer Müdigkeit und Kopfschmerzen verursacht. Dies ist ein Problem, das alle Hersteller teilen, die gedacht haben, Glas über dem Fahrer sei eine gute Idee und Störungen verursacht. Das Glas hat keinen UV-Schutz, was es im Sommer ohne Sonnenschutz unerträglich macht. Ein bedeutender Vorteil von Model 3 und Y ist das schnelle Laden; an V3 250 kW-Ladern ist das Fahrzeug in 20 Minuten vollständig aufgeladen, sodass Sie schnell Besorgungen erledigen oder einen Kaffee holen können.
Das Model Y hat die gleichen Empfehlungen wie das Model 3, mit dem Unterschied im Komfort aufgrund seiner größeren Höhe. Es ist einfacher, in das Fahrzeug einzusteigen und auszusteigen. Der Kofferraum ist größer, und der Zugang erfolgt über die fünfte Tür.
Das neue Model 3 Higland ist ein absoluter Wunder und eine Revolution in Design und Qualität von Innen- und Außenbereich. Die Kabine ist während der Fahrt leiser, und die Sitze sind noch bequemer.
Das Model 3 beginnt bei 25.000 Euro in deutschen Anzeigen, was ein außergewöhnlich guter Preis ist. Für diejenigen, die viel reisen, zu Hause aufladen und den Supercharger nutzen, wird sich dieses Fahrzeug über 200.000 km vollständig rentieren. Nach meiner Meinung haben selbst die ersten LR-Modelle ohne das Heat Pump-System weniger Probleme, und die Einsparungen aus dieser Optimierung sind möglicherweise nicht spürbar, da wir ein mildes Klima auf dem Balkan haben. Ihre größte Ausgabe wird die vordere Gabel sein, die quietscht, wenn Wasser in die Kugel eindringt, der Kabinenfilter und das Laden am Supercharger mit 0,38 Euro pro kWh.
Dilema koja je mene brinula prije 5 godina kad sam birao prvu rabljenu Teslu, nisam imao koga pitati ali utjehu mi je nudila garancija na motor i bateriju od 8 godina. Ali sa tom tvornickom garancijom sam se pitao što kasnije nakon isteka, kako popraviti bateriju i motor. Nametnuti strah od toga je i prvi temelj EV CLINIC, misija ne da samo razbijemo mitove i stereotipe vec da i na održiv način rijesimo te buduće probleme električnih vozila i nakon 8 godina ne samo sebi već o drugima. Ja sam prelaskom na EV sam povećao svoj komfor je je vožnja udobnija i tiša, poboljšao ritam jer punim doma i svako jutro me čeka natankan do čepa za 10eura i poboljsao kvalitetu života jer ne trošim na naftu, redovne kvarove i servise fosilca
Čitatelji su nekolika puta pisali koju Teslu izabrati pa ćemo ukratko, čitljivo, bez puno razlaganja objasniti koji su vam kriteriji kod kupnje Tesle, koje prednosti a koje mane.
Tesla ima jedan od najkvalitetnijih, pouzdanijih i najjeftinijih pogonskih sustava na sviejtu a najveći nedostatak vezan za Tesla vozila nije samo vozilo, već degradirano iskustvo u ovlaštenim servisima gdje radi sve nestručnija mlada ekipa mehaničara i tehničara. Najveće razočarenje dosta vlasnika dolazi upravo iz lošeg iskustva u servisu gdje se problemi ne riješe, a nastanu novi problemi. Teslin srednji menadžment je donio odluku da se priortizira prodaja a ne servis, i tom odlukom uništavaju Tesla postprodajno iskustvu u temelju. Firstadopteri vrlo dobro znaju o čemu pričam.
MODEL S i X
Nekoliko puta sam se šaltao iz Model S u Model 3 i nazad, vozio sam i Model Y i Model X, ali kralj asfalta je Model S sa zračnim ovjesom jer je najudobniji i najtiši za vožnju.
Primarni kriterij većine kupaca Tesle je uvjek CIJENA, FREE SUPERCHARGER pa tek onda DOMET i ostali kriteriji. Napomena: samo vozila proizvedena do 4mj 2017 imaju FREE SUC (sc01) vezan za auto i ostaje sa autom. Napomena 2: neka vozila nema FREE SUC i prije 2017 ako su : preprodana Tesli staro za novo, ako je vlasnik ostetio auto i nije popravio u ovlastenom, ako je vlasnik prenio FREE SUC na novo vozilo, ako je kupljen u Norveskoj od dilera ostaje bez besplatnog punjenja. Napomena 3: Sva Model S i X vozila proizvedena do 3-2020 imaju garanciju 8 godina i NEOGRANICEN BROJ KILOMETARA Napomena 4: Poželjno je provjeriti da Tesla nije kojim slučajem UNSUPPORTED, što znači da je bila razbijena i recimo osiguranje proglasilo totalno štetu. Tad je Tesla proglasi nesigurno za cestu i trajno je deaktiviran SUPERCHARGER. Znaci nema punjenja na njihovim.
Najpouzdaniji Model S koje možete kupiti su modeli sa oznakom xxD što podrazumjeva da je DUAL DRIVE, pogon sa dva mala pouzdana el motora koji se hlade uljem i nemaju nikad problem sa prodorom vode vlage ili antifriza u zonu statora.
Najpouzdaniji modeli su 70D 75D sa snagom od 240kw i 85D 90D 100D sa snagom od 315kw
75D je apsolutni pobjednik cijele liste jer baterija usable od 72.4kWh , baterija doslovno istog kapaciteta kao i Model S 85 ali sa 14 blokova u bateriji, ne 16 što znači da je masa vozila manja za 50 kila. Osim toga 75D je i apsolutni pobjednik i sa brzinom punjenja na brzim punjacima gdje bez problema vuče 128KW snage i 200km dometa puni za 20 minuta čak i na vozilima preko 300000 predjenih kilometara.
Pouzdanost 75D modela je dokazana na modelima od 300,000 prijedjenih kilometara gdje i dalje vozi na original poluosovinama, sto recimo za 85D 90D 100D nije slučaj jer zbog vece snage 315kw i jačeg obrtnog momenta na prednjim kotačima trga kinetčki zglob poluosovine, sto je dodatni trošak od 2000eura svakih 100000km.
Modeli koji nose oznaku PxxD (a to su P85D, P90D, P100D) su manje pouzdani, a razlika je tome sto P modeli nose LARGE DRIVE UNIT na zadnjim osovinama, isti onaj LDU motor koji je u S85 i P85 modelima, isti onaj koji ima problem da propusti antifriz u stator sto moze dovesti do troska svakih 100000km od 7500eur u ovlastenom servisu. Doduše moram napomenuti da su to modeli sa preko 350kw snage i izrazito jakog obrtnog momenta i ubrzanja. Vozilo koje je namjenjeno za SPORT. Taj motor kad preventivno repariramo da ne dodje do proboja antifriza, taj motor je siguran narednih 300,000km
Modeli koji nose oznake S60 S70 S75 S85 S90 P85 P90 su RWD modeli bez prednjeg pogona, koji imaju prednju haubu 3x vecu od svih ostalih modela. To su modeli sa primarnim problemom elektromotora, motora koji je se nije proslavio zbog sasvim glupog propusta na semeringu rotora gdje antifriz unisti motor. Motor koji dokumentirano prelazi 800,000km. Tako kad kupujes ovaj model, poželjno je na vrijeme reparirati motor preventivno da se promjeni dizajn hladjenja rotora gdje više nije moguce da probije antifriz u motor sa novijom generacijom teflon semeringa. Znači taj model S koji kupite mora biti bar 5000 eura jeftiniji od Dual drive modela da vam se isplati. Preventivna reparacija motora kod nas je 2800eur+PDV 25% što je 3500 eura da se spriječi ikakav problem na motoru narednih 6-7 godina. Druga prednost ovih modela nad dualdrive je sto svi (skoro) imaju besplatan supercharger dozivotno, sto ekipa vrlo dobro iskoristi pa besplatno putuju po europi i na 100000km uštediš 13000eura nafte sto je pola placene vrijednosti same tesle.
Drugi problem ovih modela iz 2013 i 2014 godine su i njihove vec 9 godina stare baterije, službeno nazvana V1.5 verzija baterijskog sustava koja nema flet kablove po celijama i imaju problem sa prodorom vlage i vode. To su baterije koje mogu preći 600000km ako se preventivno rijesi nekoliko problema na bateriji, što kod nas dodje 1000eur +25% pdv.
I upravo taj model S85 ja vozim, ugradio sam 100kwh bateriju i prototip patched motor, vozilo ima free supercharger dozivotno. Taj model S RWD je nezamjenjiv iz vise razloga. Meni je najdraza prednja hauba u koju stane 3 putne torbe. Nevjerovatna je i zadnja hauba, gdje recimo kad idem u IKEA, oborim zadnja sjedista i imam prostora od sjedista do zadnje plastike 2 metra i 3 centa, sto znaci stane ikejin ormar ili drugi namjetaj po duljini i da zatvorim haubu. Moj Model S ima 382,000km na satu, original zračni ovjes, sad sam mjenjao prve prednje diskove i pločice (da nikad nije mjenjano). Ovjes vilice / viljuske sam mjenjao sve nekih 1200 eura materijala.
Koji model izabrati za najveći domet, recimo za taksiranje ili za duge poslovne puteve. Te nemojte razmisljati nista manje od Model S 100D, problem je nekima sto će očekivati da ima besplatno punjenje ali takav 100D u europi nije nikad prodan.
Kvarovi za modele 60 70 75 85 90 P85 P90: – PTC Heater kabine : NOV 700eur, EVC 300eur (svakih 300,000km) – PTC baterije: NOV 400eur (svakih 300000km) – Motor LDU : NOV 7500eur , EVC 3500eur (svakih 50,000km) – Baterija :NOVA 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 600,000km uz preventivno RESEAL, svakih 150,000km bez) – Kvake na vratima: NOVA 250eur, EVC 80eur – Podizač stakala: NOV 280eur (svakih 150,000km vozacev) – Mehanizam brisača: NOV 400eur (svakih 200,000km) – Ovjes vilice kocnice: SVE NOVE oko 1200eur, diskovic plocice 700 (svakih 300,000km) – SPORO PUNI NA BRZIM PUNJAČIMA (osim ako ima novu bateriju 350V 88kwh kataloski 1014116) – OBC GEN2 charger: NOV 2500eur, EVC 1200 (svakih 250,000km, mreza ih pokvari) – Motorić parking ručne: NOV 650eur, EVC 150EUR , može se reparirati (svakih 250,000km) – Screen glue leak : NOV 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
Kvarovi za Modele 75D 85D 90D 100D: – PTC Heater kabine : NOV 700eur, EVC 300eur (svakih 300,000km) – PTC baterije: NOV 400eur (svakih 300000km) – Kvake na vratima: NOVA 250eur, EVC 80eur – Prednje poluosovine: NOVO U Tesli dijelovi i rad 1800eur (svakih 100,000km) – Podizač stakala: NOV 280eur (svakih 150,000km vozacev) – Mehanizam brisača: NOV 400eur (svakih 200,000km) – Ovjes vilice kocnice: SVE NOVE oko 1200eur, diskovic plocice 700 (svakih 300,000km) – MOTORI NISU PROBLEM: NOV 3300eur (svakih 600,000km) – BATERIJU NISU PROBLEM: NOV 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 600,000km, RESEAL svakih 300,000km) – Prednji LED farovi, topi se DAYLIGHT led I pozuti : NOVA OBA 2200eur, Rabljeno 600eur – Screen glue leak : NOV 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
Kvarovi za Modele P85D P90D P100D – PTC Heater kabine : NOV 700eur, EVC 300eur (svakih 300,000km) – PTC baterije: NOV 400eur (svakih 300000km) – Kvake na vratima: NOVA 250eur, EVC 80eur – Prednje poluosovine: NOVO U Tesli dijelovi i rad 1800eur (svakih 100,000km) – Podizač stakala: NOV 280eur (svakih 150,000km vozacev) – Mehanizam brisača: NOV 400eur (svakih 200,000km) – Ovjes vilice kocnice: SVE NOVE oko 1200eur, diskovic plocice 700 (svakih 300,000km) – Motor LDU : NOV 7500eur , EVC 3500eur (svakih 50,000km, ili 300,000km ako se preventivno reparira) – BATERIJU NISU PROBLEM: NOV 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 600,000km, RESEAL svakih 300,000km) – Screen glue leak : NOV 800eur, MCU2 1500eur, EVC 450eur
PREDNOSTI: S60 70 75 85 90: -VELIKA prednja hauba -Besplatan supercharger dozivotno -Mekši za vožnju -Imaju najbolji i najjednostavniji Autopilot AP1 koji radi
75D 85D 90D 100D -75 85 90 neki imaju FREE SUPERCHARGER doživotno. -Pogon na sva 4 kotača -Pouzdana i baterija i motor -Neki su jos pod garancijom ovisno o godini -Sasvim dovoljno ubrzanje -Brzo puni na supercharger -NEKI imaju najbolji i najjednostavniji Autopilot AP1 koji radi (ako nema bočne kamere)
P85D P90D P100D -Pogon na sva 4 kotača -Ubrzanje 3-3,5 sekunde -Neki su jos pod garancijom ovisno o godini -Brzo puni na supercharger -Pouzdana baterija i prednji motor
POŽELJNO DA VOZILO IMA: MCU2 retrofit – vrijednost 1550eur CCS Upgrade – vrijednost 150eur GLASS ROOF ili TVRDI KROV – još tiši I udobniji KUKU ZA VUČU – vrijednost 2000eur DA IMA FREE SUPERCHARGER – vrijednost 5000eur
Odabir za različite kriterije. TOP PERFORMANSE: P90D P100D SREDNJE PERFORMANSE: 85D 90D 100D DOMET: 100D JEFTINIJI: 85, 90, P85 P85D,
Što sad znače sve ove cifre brojevi opisi? Ne da vas prestrašim več vam dajem uvid u potencijalni trošak i da u kupnji uračunate nepredvidjenih troškova 2000eur. Neki vlasnici koji su kupili EV zadnjom lovom, prvi kvar pokvari očekivanja a zaboravljaju da kupuju vozilo od 500 konjskih snaga i 7-8 godina starosti. Velika većina vozila koja se kupi u EU i doveze, vecinom su to održavana vozila, mažena i pažena pa tih iznenadnih troškova nema. Ali nekim rijetkim vlasnicima se desilo da je kvar za kvarom, vjerovali ili ne, na vozilima sa malo kilometara.. oko 100,000km. Ja osobno kupujem najjeftiniji ispod 20000 eura i porijesavam sitnice, nedostatke i vozim besplatno.
Kilometri na Tesli zaista nisu bitni, jer vecina vozila sa puno kilometara su u izrazito dobrom stanju i vani i unutra. Model S je koristio izuzetno kvalitetne materijale i vani i unutra. Cijeli vozilo i karoserija je od aluminija tako da korozija nikad nece biti problem.
Kod pregleda vozila prilikom kupnje, provjeriti da ne zuji motor (ne smije nikakvih zvukova biti). Kod kretanja i mjenjanja smjera iz Drive u Rikverc ne smije lupiti prijenos (puknut gumeni nosač), provjeriti jel sto lupka na ovjesu za vrijeme voznje, provjeriti da li vozilo puni na superchargeru (ako ne puni, neka muljaža ili kvar) i to je sve da bi bili stručnjak za kupnju. Tako da sve što nadjete neispravno na vozilu ne odredjuje ishod kupnje već cijenu vozila kod prodavača. Neki Modeli imaju ugradjen recimo CCS adapter za brzo punjenje, neki imaju MCU2 srednji zaslon nove generacije sa Youtube Netflix itd, neki imaju sve kvake promjenjene na reviziju 3. To su stvari koje dižu vrijednost vozila. Zadnja stavka je da pregledate bateriju sa donje strane, možete se sagnuti i vizualno provjeriti da li ima udubljenja na kućištu. Ako su udubljenja veća od 8mm onda vozilo koje je u garanciji, gubi garanciju na bateriju. Ogrebotine i slicno nisu problem, rupe i veca udubljenja jesu moguci problem. Možete se sagnuti, lampom i kamerom na mobitelu pregledati podnicu baterije ili dignuti na dizalicu.
Kupnja obavezno i isključivo u zemljama: NJEMACKA, AUSTRIJA, BELGIJA, DANSKA, NIZOZEMSKA, ITALIJA, FRANCUSKA, SWEDSKA, NORVESKA
Vozila iz POLJSKE, RUMUNIJE, BUGARSKE su u vecini slucajeva lose odrzavana, USA IMPORT sa deaktiviranim superchargerom i nekim drugim problemima poput manipulirane kilometraže (do sada samo jedan sam upratio u Bugarskoj).
Ako je S85 20000eur a 75D 35000eur, nema FREE punjenje, logicniji je izbor S85 jer je 15000 razlika u cijeni, ali ako puno putuješ i treba ti brzo punjenje onda je 75D logičniji izbor. Model S ima vec od 16000e sa besplatnim punjenjem i moguce manjim nedostatcima.
Vrlo često možete naletiti na neispravnu za 10000eur, ako je motor onda vam je to 3500troska i imate auto sa garancijom. Ako je baterija onda je oko 5000eur troska. Ako je auto dobar, ako ne kupis ti, budem ja.
ZA OVU LISTU AKO SE JOŠ ŠTA SJETIM, DODAM KASNIJE
MODEL 3 i Y
Primarni kriterij većine kupaca Tesle je uvjek CIJENA,pa tek onda DOMET i ostali kriteriji.
Napomena: samo vozila proizvedena do 4mj 2021 imaju otključan GTW za kodiranja i otključavanja. Napomena 2: Samo vozila od 3/2021 imaju Heat pump sistem. Napomena 3: Svi Model 3 i Y imaju 8 godina garanciju, SR ima do 160,000km a LR i Performance do 192,000km
Najpouzdaniji Model 3 i Y je svaki postojeći model. SR ima samo zadnji pogon dok LR i P imaju pogon na sva 4 kotača. Neki “unircorn” izuzetci su kad Model 3 LR ima samo zadnji pogon i to je najtrazeniji model sa najviše dometa.
Kvarovi za modele za Model 3 do 2021: – PTC Heater kabine : NOV 700eur, EVC 300eur (svakih 200,000km) – Nosači motora LDU : NOV 80eur , EVC 80eur (svakih 200,000km) – Baterija :NOVA 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 600,000km, ili svakih 300,000km ako punite na 100% ili ako punite malo na DC) – Ovjes vilice / kocnice: SVE NOVE oko 1200eur, diskovic plocice 700 (svakih 150,000km) – Prednje gornje vilice škripe, udje voda u kuglu. – Vlaga u zadnjim lampama : NOVA komad 200eur – Charge port error – MASA : RAD 100eur – Filter kabine 2x: NOV 40eur (svakih 6 mjeseci) – OBC : NOV 1200eur (u bateriji se nalazi, svakih 250,000km) – Volan, fake koza se guli: NOV 1000eur, Presvlačenje 300eur – Neki kozmetički nedostatci, guma oko vrata, škripi podizanje stakla, kočnice trunu od ne korištenja
Kvarovi za modele za Model 3 SR do 2020 sa NMC baterijama: – Baterija : NOVA 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 250,000km) – OBC : NOV 1200eur (u bateriji se nalazi, svakih 250,000km) – Volan, vegan koza se guli: NOV 1000eur, Presvlačenje 300eur – Neki kozmetički nedostatci, guma oko vrata, škripi podizanje stakla, kočnice trunu od ne korištenja – Charge port error – MASA : RAD 100eur
Kvarovi za modele za Model 3 SR+ LR i P od 2021: – Baterija : NOVA 18000eur, EVC 1000-5500eur (svakih 400,000km-claim) – Ovjes vilice kocnice: SVE NOVE oko 1000eur, diskovic plocice 700 (svakih 150,000km) – Problematical HEAT PUMP sistem, špena kontaminira cijeli sustav osteti kompresor. NOV: 1800eur OCTO+KOMP – OBC : NOV 1200eur (u bateriji se nalazi, svakih 250,000km) – Volan, fake koza se guli: NOV 1000eur, Presvlačenje 300eur – Neki kozmetički nedostatci, guma oko vrata, škripi podizanje stakla, kočnice trunu od ne korištenja
Prednosti Model 3 i Y su ovisno o potrebama kupca, nekome je sve prednost a nekome ništa. Vozilo je nekima iznutra poprilično jednolično i spartanski neukusno, neko ga obozava ( i ja volim jednostavnost ). Sjedista su izuzetno udobna a voznja je nesto neudobnija od Model S i X. Kotači sa podloge prenose buku / mikro vibracije u kabinu na vecim brzinama i tvrdji je za duže voznje od Model S. Nedostatak je i panorama glass, kroz koji ljeti sunce umara i stvara glavobolju. Problem svih proizvodjaca kojima je uopce palo na pamet staviti staklo iznad vozaca da ga ometa. Staklo nema UV zastitu pa ljeti je nesnosno bez sjenila. Velika prednost Model 3 I Y je brzo punjenje, na V3 250KW punjacima vozilo je puno za 20 minuta i doslovno trčite obaviti nuždu i shopping klope / kafe. Velika je prednost sto ovi modeli nemaju apsolutno nikakvih kvarova. Nov motor u Tesli je 2000eur +pdv tako da ni tu necemo imati posla. Velika mana je Vision only sustav bez parking senzora, loš rad automatskih brisača po kiši i vrlo naporan autopilot (za razliku od prvog AP1).
Model Y sadrži iste preporuke kao i Model 3, razlika je u komforu što je Y visočiji. Lakše je ući i izaći iz vozila. Razlika je i u prtljažniku koji je veći i pristupa se petim vratima.
Novi Model 3 Higland je apsolutno čudo i revolucija, u dizajnu i kvaliteti interijera i exterijera. Kabina je tiša u vožnji i sjedišta još udobnija.
Model 3 ima već od 25000eur po Njemačkim oglasima sto je izuzetno dobra cijena. Tko puno putuje, puni doma i koristi supercharger, ovo vozilo će se isplatiti kompletno kroz 200000km. Po meni čak manje problema imaju prvi LR modeli bez Heat pump sistema, a usteda na tu optimizaciju mozda i nije primjetna jer na balkanu imamo blagu klimu. Najveci trosak ce vam biti prednje vilice koje škripe jer udje voda u kuglu, filter kabine i punjenje na supercharger 0.38eur po kwh.
ŠTO JA VOZIM: Tesla S85 2014 AP1 Free SUC 380,000km Smart 451ED 2014 Tuned baterija 80000km Smart 453EQ 2019 35000km eGolf 2015 250,000km
37kWh Electric VW Transporter ABTe, also known as WTFe colloquially, with 12,000km and a faulty battery. It’s puzzling to me that advanced Europe struggles so much to find the “starting point of ductape” while Asia and the USA are “landing on the moon.” There’s literally such a gap in progress in quality and QUALITY automotive solutions between the EU and the rest of the world, let’s say sustainable solutions. Entrepreneurs face significant problems because new diesel solutions for commercial activities have become unsustainable, irreparable, more expensive, and causing total losses due to fleets hanging on the workshop lift. Nobody wants to overhaul engines because they’re unsustainable and a complete waste of resources, and new engines cost over €10,000. So, you turn to electricity because the solution is electricity, it requires less maintenance, but not the kind Europe produces, rather from Asia or America, and this ABTe with a small battery is an example. Probably to meet some quota, VAG group’s ABTe has converted a new diesel into electricity with a battery that essentially has quality cells but in the wrong configuration and in the wrong vehicle without any thermal management – heating and cooling. Due to higher amperage through a small system, this will accelerate the degradation and wear of the entire system. As diesel apostles would say, “pure deception” while their third turbine whistles through a clogged DPF worth €9,000. A battery of around 100Ah with CATL cells and 35-square-millimeter conductors, which with a capacity of 37kWh, probably has a usable cap of around 30kWh, which for a 2.5-ton van is insufficient, especially for deliveries. If I were to review this for misinformation in the style of an auto club or any other biased media, I’d say that in winter, it covers about 60km with the typical Balkan-style gasping from one traffic light to another, but with normal driving in winter, it’s around 90-100km, which still isn’t enough and calls for the diesel generator. Why did anyone bother assembling this when delivery drivers need at least some range? There’s a version with a 75kWh battery, and that’s probably the best choice because it offers at least some autonomy for daily activities, which, in my opinion, is the only recommendation and the only thing worthy of carrying the ABTe logo. The battery had a BMS lock and insulation drop to 200kOhm. Opening the battery was like a three-day construction site, but we managed to solve it and save the owner the cost of a new €18,000 battery (€486 per kWh). Also, it’s unclear why this ABTe doesn’t have a warranty, although nothing surprises us with EU manufacturers because “Warranty Rape” is a common practice, and strictness is practiced on non-EU manufacturers. It’s excellent, comfortable, and quiet for driving. The performance is satisfactory, can handle a load of up to 1 ton, and I would definitely prefer this over some Stellantis or Mercedes offerings. Above this, I’d choose the Chinese Maxus eDeliver 9. If you’re buying a T6 ABTe, definitely go for the one with the largest battery; a larger one doesn’t face degradation due to more cells in parallel and doesn’t heat up like the small 37kWh one.
HRVATSKI
37kwh Elektricni VW Transporter ABTe ili odmilja JBTe sa 12000km i neispravnom baterijom. Meni nije jasno da se toliko napredna europa toliko muči da nadje “početak selotejpa” dok azija i usa “sleću na mjesec”. Toliki je doslovno gap u napretku kvalitete i KVALITETNIH automotive riješenja izmedju EU i ostatka svijeta, ajmo reći održivih rijesenja. Poduzetnici su u velikim problemima jer nova dizel rijesenja za gospodarske djelatnosti su postala neodrziva, nepopravljiva, skuplja i u totalnim gubitcima zbog flote koja visi na dizalici. Generalke motora nece niko da radi jer su neodrzive i totalno bacanje resursa, a novi motori su preko 10000€. Onda se okrenes struji, jer Rijesenje je struja ima manje odrzavanja, medjutim ne ona koju napravi europa, vec azija ili amerika, a ovaj ABTe sa malom baterijom je primjer. Vjerovatno da ispune nekakvu kvotu, novog dizelasa je ABTe u reziji VAG grupacije preradio u struju sa baterijom koja u principu ima kvalitetne celije ali u pogresnoj konfiguraciji i na pogresnom vozilu bez ikakvog thermal management – grijanja i hladjenja. Sto ce zbog vecih amperaza kroz mali sustav ubrzati degradaciju i trosenje cijelog sustava. Kako bi dizel apostoli rekli “čista prevara” dok im treca turbina zviždji kroz zacepljen dpf od 9000€. Baterija od nekih 100Ah sa CATL celijama sa 35kvadrata vodičima koja sa 37kwh kapacitetom ima usable cap vjerovatno oko 30kwh sto za kombija od 2.5 tone je nedovoljno pogotovo za dostave. Da radim recenziju za dezinformiranje u stilu autoklub ili jutarnjeg rekao bi da sad zimi ima oko 60km dometa sa krkanius balkanikus gasanjem od semafora do semafora, ali sa normalnom voznjom sad zimi je prije negdje oko 90-100km, sto opet nije dovoljno i doziva agregat. Zasto je ovo uopce neko sastavljao i trudio se kad dostavljacima treba bar neki domet. Postoji verzija sa baterijom od 75kWh i ona je vjerovatno najbolji izbor jer nudi bar neku autonomiju za dnevne aktivnosti, sto je po meni i jedina preporuka i jedino dostojan da nosi ABTe logotip. Baterija je imala lock bms-a i pad izolacije na 200kOhm, otvaranje baterije je trodnevna bauštela ali uspjeli smo je rijesiti i spasiti vlasnika troska nove baterije od 18000€ (486€ po kwh). Takodjer nije nam jasno zasto ovaj ABte nema garanciju, doduše ne iznenadjuje nas nista sa EU proizvodjacima jer ”Warranty Rape” je uhodana praksa a strogoca se trenira na non-eu proizvodjacima. Za vožnju je odlican, udoban i tih. Performanse zadovoljavajuce, masa tereta do 1 tonu, i svakako bi prije ovo izabrao neko stellantis ili mercedes ponudu. Iznad ovog bi izabrao kineza Maxus eDeliver 9. Ako kupujet T6 ABTe obavezno samo sa najvecom baterijom, veca nema ni degradaciju zbog vise celija u paraleli i ne grije se kao mala 37kw.
